Motorhome trips through Sicily

Sicily follows the Italian highway code, and that code is favourable to motorhomes: article 185 of the Codice della Strada states that a motorhome resting on its wheels, discharging nothing but engine exhaust and taking up no more space than its own footprint is simply parked, not camping. Sleeping in a parked motorhome is therefore allowed wherever parking is allowed; only when levelling legs, an awning, chairs or a table come out does it become 'campeggio', which is prohibited outside campsites and designated sostas. Municipalities may only exclude motorhomes for documented traffic or environmental reasons on specific roads, not as a category: the administrative court in Catania annulled a municipality-wide motorhome ban in February 2024 for exactly that reason. In practice the seaside resorts do post 'divieto di sosta autocaravan' signs at beaches and promenades from June to September, and fines are issued there.

Sicily's network of 'aree di sosta' — often at agriturismos, restaurants and on the edge of the baroque towns — is dense and cheap: expect 10 to 20 euro with electricity and disposal. Campsites are fewer than on the mainland, especially on the west and south coasts, and many close from November to March. At Etna the large sosta is at Rifugio Sapienza on the south side; the north side via Piano Provenzana is narrow and steep. In nature reserves such as Zingaro and Vendicari you may only park at the visitor car park and not stay overnight.

Cities are the thing to watch. Palermo, Catania, Syracuse (Ortygia), Taormina, Cefalù and most baroque centres have a ZTL where cameras fine every unauthorised entry, foreign plates included; park on the edge and walk or take the bus. Visit Taormina from Giardini-Naxos or Letojanni, Ortygia from the Talete or Molo Sant'Antonio car parks, Palermo from the campsite at Sferracavallo. The A18 Messina–Catania and A20 Messina–Palermo motorways are tolled with plazas, the A19 and A29 are free; the inland road network is slower than the map suggests. The crossing from the mainland takes twenty minutes via Villa San Giovanni–Messina, no reservation needed.