Motorhome trips through Estonia

Estonia is the motorhome destination of the three Baltic states, thanks to igaüheõigus, the 'everyman's right': you may move freely over unbuilt land that is not fenced or marked as private and stay one night as long as you keep out of sight of houses, cause no damage and light no fire outside built fire pits. On top of that the state forestry agency RMK runs the finest network in northern Europe: hundreds of free camping and rest sites with fire pit and firewood, sheltered picnic tables, dry toilet and rubbish bin, open all year. Many can be reached by motorhome on forest roads and overnighting with a motorhome is allowed; the RMK app shows the facilities per site and whether there is a car park. Arrive early, because on July weekends the popular sites in Lahemaa and on Saaremaa are full.

The limits of the freedom are clear. In the Lahemaa, Soomaa, Matsalu and Vilsandi national parks and in reserves you only stay overnight at the designated RMK sites. Driving and camping on beaches and in dunes is prohibited. Tallinn, Tartu and Pärnu enforce a city-centre parking regime in which a motorhome is not welcome at night; Tallinn has a city campsite in Pirita, Pärnu and Tartu have campsites on the edge. Private land requires permission, which Estonians usually give.

Practical: no tolls and no vignette for vehicles up to 3.5 tonnes. Speed limits for motorhomes up to 3.5 tonnes: 90 outside built-up areas, 110 on some roads in summer, 50 inside; dipped headlights compulsory all year; alcohol limit 0.2 per mille. The ferries to Saaremaa (Virtsu–Kuivastu) and Hiiumaa (Rohuküla–Heltermaa) run frequently and are affordable for motorhomes; book ahead in high season. The border with Latvia at Ikla is open, the one with Russia at Narva is closed to tourists. LPG is scarce; bring a full bottle.