Sicily Loop - from Palermo along every coast and up Mount Etnafrom Palermo along every coast and up Mount Etna

Palermo is chaotic, loud, and irresistible: the markets of Ballarò and Vucciria, the Norman chapel with golden mosaics in the palace, the cathedral, and the Capuchin catacombs. The motorhome does not belong in the city; the motorhome pitches and campsites are located on the coast near Sferracavallo and Isola delle Femmine, take the bus or train to the centre. Monreale, on the hill above the city, has the most beautiful cathedral in Sicily with six thousand square metres of mosaic; go early, the parking for large vehicles is at the bottom of the village.

Castellammare del Golfo is a fishing town around a bay with an Arab-Norman castle on the quay. Scopello, a few kilometers further on, is a hamlet built around an old tuna fishery with rocks rising like towers from the sea; the swimming water at the tonnara is the most beautiful on the west coast. The southern entrance to the Riserva dello Zingaro is just past Scopello, with a small parking lot at the end of the road.

San Vito Lo Capo has a white sand beach under a limestone cape, a village of low white houses, and the best couscous in Sicily. The Riserva dello Zingaro, the island's first nature reserve, can be explored on foot from the northern entrance: a seven-kilometer coastal path along bays only accessible by swimming or walking. The motorhome pitches are on the outskirts of the village; a reservation is required in summer.

Trapani has a crescent-shaped center between two seas, a fish market at the harbor, and an evening stroll along the Mura di Tramontana with the sun setting behind the Aegadian Islands. The cable car takes you in ten minutes to Erice, the medieval town at 750 meters that is often shrouded in clouds, and boats to Favignana depart from the quay. The motorhome pitches are located on the outskirts of the city near the salt pans.

Selinunte was one of the largest Greek cities in the Mediterranean world, and its archaeological park is still the largest in Europe: temples on the acropolis hill, a gigantic fallen temple on the eastern hill, and between them a plain of flowers with the sea behind. An electric train runs between the sections. Marinella di Selinunte is the fishing village next to it, with a beach and motorhome pitches within walking distance of the entrance.

The Valley of the Temples in Agrigento is the best reason to come to Sicily: a row of Doric temples on a ridge above the sea, with the Temple of Concordia as one of the best preserved in the Greek world. Arrive at opening or stay until the evening opening in summer, when the temples are illuminated. The motorhome pitches are located on the coast near San Leone, ten minutes below the park; skip the modern city on top of the hill.

Piazza Armerina shows you the largest collection of Roman mosaics in the world. In the Villa Romana del Casale, under a protective roof, you will discover impressive hunting scenes, the famous bikini girls, and a sixty-meter-long corridor full of African animals. The baroque mountain town itself, with its cool evening air, has the Duomo Piazza Armerina as a prominent landmark. From here you can enjoy a wide view of the surroundings and the charming baroque streets.

Ragusa Ibla is the old town on a rock, rebuilt in Baroque style after the 1693 earthquake and connected to the upper town by stairs. The Duomo di San Giorgio stands askew on a sloping square, the garden of the Giardino Ibleo hangs above the valley, and in the alleys, you'll find one of Italy's best restaurants. You park your motorhome in the upper town; to Ibla, you walk down the stairs or take the bus. Choose a campsite on the coast near Marina di Ragusa if you prefer to sleep by the sea.

Marzamemi is a charming fishing village that surprises you with its sandstone Piazza Regina Margherita and the historic Tonnara di Marzamemi, an old tuna fishery. Right next to the village lies the Riserva di Vendicari, a vast coastal marsh where you can spot flamingos. You'll also discover another old tonnara and walk to beaches like the tranquil Calamosche. Along the waterfront, you'll find cozy terraces where a festive buzz emerges in the evenings.

Siracusa was once larger than Athens, and the island of Ortigia is still the most beautiful city center on the island: a cathedral built around a Greek temple, the Fountain of Arethusa with papyrus in the water, and a market where fishmongers sing. The archaeological park on the mainland has a Greek theater and the Ear of Dionysius, a cave with improbable acoustics. The motorhome pitches are located on the outskirts of the city, within cycling distance of Ortigia.

Rifugio Sapienza is located on the southern flank of Etna, at 1,900 meters between black lava fields and old craters. The cable car takes you to 2,500 meters, and off-road vehicles with a guide continue to the summit craters, as far as the volcano allows. The road up from Nicolosi is wide and good; at the top there is a large parking lot where overnight stays are permitted, but bring warm clothing, as it freezes here at night even in summer. The starry sky is the reward.

Taormina clings to a mountain above the sea, with a Greek theater that has Etna as its backdrop and a main street full of terraces. You don't go up with the motorhome: the motorhome pitches are located below in Giardini-Naxos, and the cable car or bus takes you to the center in fifteen minutes. Isola Bella, the small island on Mazzarò beach, is most beautiful early in the morning; Castelmola above Taormina has the view.

Milazzo is the gateway to the volcanic Aeolian Islands, where you can take a boat directly to Lipari or Vulcano. In summer, an evening trip to Stromboli is possible to witness the eruptions. Above the city, the historic Castello di Milazzo towers on the headland. To the west, a beach stretches out with a wide view of the islands. The lively harbour and the proximity of the Aeolian Islands give Milazzo a maritime atmosphere, where you can safely park your motorhome by the quay.

Cefalù is a charming fishing town at the foot of an imposing rock. Here you can admire the Norman Duomo di Cefalù, built by Roger II after a shipwreck. A one-hour climb to La Rocca rewards you with panoramic views over the rooftops and the azure sea. The old wash house in the centre, where the water still flows, and the long Spiaggia di Cefalù on the Tyrrhenian coast, offer a varied picture of the town.

Palermo is chaotic, loud, and irresistible: the markets of Ballarò and Vucciria, the Norman chapel with golden mosaics in the palace, the cathedral, and the Capuchin catacombs. The motorhome does not belong in the city; the motorhome pitches and campsites are located on the coast near Sferracavallo and Isola delle Femmine, take the bus or train to the centre. Monreale, on the hill above the city, has the most beautiful cathedral in Sicily with six thousand square metres of mosaic; go early, the parking for large vehicles is at the bottom of the village.