Croatian Coast: Istria, Kvarner and Dalmatia

Rovinj is a city on the west coast of Istria where the 60-meter-high bell tower of the Church of Sveta Eufemija rises above the red roofs. You walk through the seventeenth-century Balbijev luk arch into the center, which is known for its narrow streets and art galleries in ulica Grisia. The pastel-colored houses of the old town directly border the Adriatic Sea and the harbor full of fishing boats.

Pula is rich in Roman history, highlighted by the imposing first-century amphitheater. This structure once accommodated 23,000 spectators. In the charming center, you'll find the Augustov hram, a well-preserved Roman temple, on the Forum. Nearby stands the elegant triumphal arch Slavoluk Sergijevaca. The rocky bays of Rt Kamenjak offer the chance to dive from cliffs into the Adriatic Sea. The city thus combines ancient grandeur with the lively coastline of Istria.

On Krk, rugged limestone landscapes and green olive groves alternate with historic towns. In the town of Krk, you can explore the twelfth-century Frankopan Castle and the medieval city walls along the quay. Baška Bay in the south has expansive pebble beaches, while in cliff-top Vrbnik, you can taste the local white Žlahtina wine. The island, connected to the mainland via the Krčki most, has a relaxed atmosphere with many small bays and views of the Adriatic Sea.

The island of Rab in the Kvarner Bay is known for the Četiri zvonika, four Romanesque bell towers from the twelfth to seventeenth century that tower over the eponymous capital. Here you can wander through the medieval streets of the more than two-thousand-year-old city or explore the Kalifront peninsula with one of the best-preserved holm oak forests in the region. Near the town of Lopar lies Rajska plaža, a 1500-meter sandy beach on a shallow bay.

Zadar combines history and modern art in a car-free centre with marble streets. The Roman Forum from the first century BC showcases its Roman roots. The nearby Crkva svetog Donata is a striking church from the ninth century. On the quay, you can listen to the sounds of the sea organ Morske orgulje. The Pozdrav Suncu lights up using solar energy. The city is lively, especially at sunset on the quay.

Šibenik is located at the mouth of the Krka River and is home to the Katedrala svetog Jakova, a monument built entirely of stone in 1431 and listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The 16th-century Tvrđava svetog Nikole guards the entrance to the harbour, while the Tvrđava svetog Mihovila overlooks the archipelago from above the city. In the car-free historic heart, you can stroll along stone stairs and squares by the quays.

Split is a city that grew within a Roman palace: Diocletian's Palace is not a ruin but a residential area with cellars, a cathedral in the emperor's mausoleum, and cafes on the peristyle. The Riva, the promenade under the palm trees, and the Marjan hill with its viewpoints belong to the evening. The campsite is located in Stobreč by the sea, with the bus to the center; the ferry port is next to the old city.

Brač is the island of the white stone used to build Diocletian's Palace and the White House, and of Zlatni Rat, the pebble spit near Bol that changes shape with the wind. Bol has the beach and wines of the south coast, Vidova Gora is the highest peak of the Adriatic islands, and further afield are the Blaca hermitage and the stonemasonry school in Pučišća. The campsites are near Bol and Supetar; the ferry from Split docks in Supetar, and the one to Makarska departs from Sumartin.

Hvar is the sunniest island in the Adriatic Sea, with the town of Hvar and its Venetian arsenal and fortress on one side, and Stari Grad with its UNESCO-listed Greek fields on the other. Around Velo Grablje are lavender fields and the abandoned village of Malo Grablje, Jelsa offers wines, and from the town, a taxi boat sails to the Pakleni Islands. The campsites are located near Stari Grad, Jelsa, and Vrboska; the ferry to the mainland departs from Sućuraj on the eastern tip.

The Makarska Riviera is sixty kilometers of pebble beach beneath the sheer wall of Biokovo, with Makarska as a lively port city in the middle and villages like Brela and Tučepi on either side. The road up the mountain to the Skywalk, a glass platform at 1228 meters, is narrow and steep, but the view over the islands is the best on the coast. The campsites are located along the beach; the ferry to Hvar departs from Drvenik, half an hour further south.

Dubrovnik is the pearl of the Adriatic Sea, a walled city of white stone with a two-kilometer walk on the walls and the cable car to Srđ for the view. The city is at its most beautiful early in the morning, before the cruise ships; Cavtat and the island of Lokrum are a boat trip away from the old harbor. The campsite is located in Mlini, on the coast below Cavtat, with a bus to the city; the airport is a fifteen-minute drive away.